A Sicilian olive farm, aka the most beautiful place I’ve ever been
If I ever were to merge into Sofia Coppola (wishful thinking) and was tasked with writing the screenplay for a mystical summer drama, I’d now be able to say I know JUST the place.
Located in a sleepy town in the Sicilian mountains on the northern coast, Casa Migliaca is an 18th century olive and fruit farm which has opened some of its rooms to guests from around the world. I can honestly say that this is, without a doubt, the most beautiful and enigmatic place I have ever visited.
We had one of the four downstairs bedrooms, which look out over the 25 acres of olive and lemon groves and down the valley to the sea. Most of our time was spent reading, drinking wine, playing cards and talking about nothing in particular. Just the way vacation should be.
A small community
With only a small number of rooms, all guests are invited to join the owner of the house for dinner every evening around an old oil press turned into a table. The dinners bring together guests from all around the world, and usually end up in conversations continuing way past midnight while consuming some seriously amazing wholesome Sicilian cooking alongside the organic vegetables and fruits produced at the farm.
In the mornings, the rustic common kitchen stands open for everyone to prepare their own breakfast with fresh eggs, oranges from the garden and cheese from the nearby village. All while the sun sippers in through the timbered ceiling and your biggest worry is what you’re going to eat and read next.
During the day, we would make small excursions to nearby forgotten mountain towns, drink Italian coffee and explore the olive plantations. It’s not for everyone, but I do recommend visiting rural Sicily for everyone who enjoys doing nothing at all every once in a while. Spending two days in Casa Migliaca was like pausing the space and time continuum and letting go of everything else to enjoy only the present. All together with good friends.
How to get there
If you’re tempted for a visit, easiest way of getting there is flying to Palermo and renting a car to drive from there to Pettineo. The drive is around 90 minutes long, and takes you past green rolling hills and scenic seaside villages. I highly recommend a pit stop in Cefalù to look at the 12th century Norman cathedral, or just enjoy a good seafood lunch.